Standaard heeft m'n MX5 205/45 R17 banden op Mazda OEM ET50 (55?) velgen.
In plaats van echte winterbanden ga ik deze winter op Four Seasons rijden, dwz. Pirelli Cinturato SF3. De bandenboer heeft 16" bandjes en bijpassende velgen geleverd, en 195/55 R16 op IT Wheels Kira S-114 ET45 velgen gemonteerd.
Road 96 is an interactive story slash point'n'click adventure. (Or, on the PS4, move-the-pointer-and-sigh-and-click.) Don't expect high speed action, ray traced landscapes, or smooth character animations. It's janky, sometimes illogical, political, and might not be to everyone's liking.
But it's cheap - always a good thing - and it has style and atmosphere. So, why / why not?
Largely entertaining, but not as good as the previous two Deadpool movies. The ending was a bit of a cop-out (with the typical super villain about to destroy the world) and I found the second half of the movie somewhat predictable and boring.
Though it is entertaining...
3D Printing + X1C + Chamber Temperature
All Bambu's are created equal.
Yes. And that's a problem. Not a real problem, but it poses some interesting questions, especially when it comes to heat-soaking the build chamber. (More about that here.)
Ik heb mijn favoriete artiesten en muziek, maar soms zoek ik iets nieuws. Er zijn zelfs momenten dat ik iets vind 😂
There will never be a season 2. But - in a way - Agatha All Along is a kind of season 2, as it is a clear sequel to Wandavision.
And, to immediately get to the point, it's great!
I gathered a rather large number of plates when doing all sorts of 3D Printing experiments, and had to put them somewhere... Now I do have a lot of Ikea in my home, including the versatile Ivar rack.
Sometimes you may need all the building plate space you can get. Or you have build your own G10 / FR4 plate, and found out you just misaligned the top surface, making it impossible to print the rear purge lines... (Oops 😳)
Here's how to fix that...
I made these tools to fabricate some of my own plates. These 'tools' are made using wood, some PETG bits and pieces, and a router. These made it a little easier to assemble a plate (but there's still a lot of room for improvements).
3240 can be anything. And stuff sold as FR4 can be outright crap.
So, there's the enterprising Chinese entrepreneur who sells very old FR4 on Amazon... It may once have qualified as FR4, but not today. These plates were old, ugly, damaged, full of scratches, and definitely contain formaldehyde, bromide, and probably tons of other halogens.
Moral of the story: made sure you know what and where you buy!
I can't imagine you haven't seen it, but if you did not then go and watch Person of Interest. This is the counterpart to last month's wallpaper.
I use WallX to keep the upsized background from hurting my eyes...
This is an electronics housing printed in Innofill FR PLA, and this is what happens after a few years. Note that this is with a heat load of just 4W!
(Click on image to enlarge)
It spontaneously disintegrates. It makes you rethink on the use of PLA in certain applications, flame retardant or not...
I've seen several videos and explanations that make little sense, no longer work, or only work in commercial versions.
But... the following method (mostly and often) works (for now).
In the past I've printed some small housings for electronics. Most hobbyists do, and most of the time we're not considering how flammable (printed) filament can be.
I've gathered a few illustrative videos, as well as a list of materials and possible (Dutch) sources. This may lead to a little investigation into the flammability of filament. I might turn it into a YouTube video, yeah! (Pfffff 🙄)
The Internet is a weird place. It has allowed people a kind of freedom, a place to express themselves in ways that were never possible before.
On the other hand, its (perceived) anonymity is often used as an excuse to attack every person who has a different opinion.
One of the weapons used is (claiming someone is being) Passive Aggressive. But what does that actually mean? That I'm a baboon?
3D Printing + Air Quality + Carbonmax + Filtermax
The smelly smell of smell...
Go watch this if you're into 3D Printing (and never considered the dangers): 3D printers are worse than I thought by Made With Layers. That's a good video on air pollution, possible dangerous particles, and gasses, when 3D Printing... (And he has a Fornuftig as well.)
Particles, PLA, PETG, VOC, HEPA, air quality and pollution, non-acid washed Activated Carbon... Things might be more complex than I once thought, and my 3D Printer might not be that harmless... Perhaps.
On an inspired side note:
I took the original Carbonmax and created my own (improved?) FilterMax.
Can AI save us from aliens, or can aliens save us from AI?
(One day someone is going to make a remake of 'V' that actually becomes a smash hit...)
Yesterday I found (what I think is) another reincarnation of SMIC Technologies / Nova Technologies / Thomas Chain Discount Shop / ...
Now, the original SMIC never shipped my order, and I think it's a scam. But I like to be fooled twice...
There's surprisingly little understandable explanation of the impact of texture on adhesion and release on print beds... But we can reason it through. (And steal from the real scientists 😇)
Obviously, texture also applies to PEI, Polyurea, and in fact, every other plate!
I'm still waiting for the delivery of my 10 kg PETG... and somehow I doubt I will ever get it.
So, am I being scammed, and will I ever see a refund?
I've ordered it, and it should arrive tomorrow. When checking my order, I found a few interesting details that have me ever so slightly worried... if a. I'll ever going to get it, and b. what the hell is it?
For a change this is all about the surface (of building plates, yes, but ain't it great to be superficial for once?)
I've split the previous page in two, as it was starting to confuse myself, and moved all the material stuff in here.
This is a boring page. Skip it if you don't care about the materials used in your glass fiber / carbon based Building Plate.
Still with me? Okay. Here we go... Remember: everything in this post is about using glass (carbon) fiber based materials as build plates.
In the beginning 😇 Bambu Lab was shipping the X1C with random plates. These days they all seem to come with the gold colored textured PEI plate (at least here in NL). A sensible thing, as it's one of the easiest to use 😏
Textured PEI doesn't just make sense for Bambu Lab owners... they make sense for every 3D printer with a heated bed.
How to clean a 3D Printer building plate? It ain't much more than simply cleaning the dishes...
Rebel Moon is... a mess. Take Star Wars, add a bit of B-movie stuff like Krull, try to incorporate elements of the different 47 Ronin movies and it's descendants (The Magnificent Seven, Seven Samurai, and even Battle Beyond the Stars).
Next, spend a lot of money on effects, tits, and gross-dom, and call it the 'Director's Cut'...
To be honest, I don't own a single one of those PEO / PEY 'holographic' plates, except the 'PET Carbon' one. Which a. isn't made of carbon, and b. has some very minor texture to it (though I can't feel it). And c. This page is pretty useless 🤣
I doubt we'll ever get a second season, and it isn't necessary. And though I've read the book, the ending was still... somewhat unexpected.
The story is complete, the show is done after 10 episodes, and my verdict is short and simple: it's a great watch, all ten episodes long.
Bigtreetech sells a number of products aimed at the Bambu Lab printers, all using the Panda moniker. Marketing-wise it's a great idea. Product-wise the SSS plate is a bit of a disaster.
It looks like PEI (but only at first glance). It isn't though. It might be epoxy, some other unholy coating, or it might be a kind of truck bedliner / oily paint.
Nobody knows, including Bigtreetech.
Found this on Penny Arcade, which is either a complete miss, or a spot-on hit. This one goes into the latter category... How does it feel to be an aspiring author?
The Bambu Lab X1C has an interesting option. It looks for a marker on the building plate, and warns you if the plate inserted does not match the one you've used during slicing. Pretty convenient, isn't it?
The P1S and P1P don't use this code, and many cheaper build plates don't have a code. So what to do?
Just some ideas to ponder over...
What if I would replace the right panel of my X1C with a custom build, so I could add carbon and Hepa filters to the box? In other words, enlarge the chamber a little, so I won't have a Carbonmax inside the building space?
Engineering High Temperature Smooth Textured PEI PEX PEZ PEY Cryogrip SSS Polyurea FR4 GS10 TK99 Honeycomb Cube Wham Bam Lightyear...
My god! It's enough to drive one crazy! So, I've ordered a few different ones, and have been scouring the Internet for more information. And to be perfectly honest: it's a confusing mess.
After my aborted first attempt I settled for a single block with slightly different settings... These are the results. Remember: my settings came from trying to print the toughest object in ABS (for my Sunlu mod), not trying to make the prettiest print...
My old Dremel 3D20 has started making some weird noises. It only does so when extruding infill, ie. when high speed extrusion and high speed movement is required. I tightened all the screws, and that didn't fix things, so now I suspect it is the extruder.
Not that I'm looking forward to to taking the thing apart...
I never heard of either the author, nor the Joseph Bridgeman series, but apparently the latter is popular enough to have made it into 4 books by know, published in 2021 and 2022 (according to Goodreads).
And Then She Vanished is time travel, but a bit different, with some genetically defined time travel superpower thrown in. Kinda.
Let's see if I got ABS down now. Three large blocks, 60% speed, in ABS. Print time: 14 hours. And it's on...
I mean, what could go wrong?
My Sunlu S1 mods have been partially successful, and I guess I'll have to consider a DIY solution using Peltiers to move to the next level... Though that one is still in the 'idea phase' 😇
Next challenge / experiment: what to do with old filament, and how to make sure it will last longer?
I've compiled some numbers. Make sure to check your filament specifications - do not rely on my data!
The Excel file is here and may be more up-to-date than the table below.
Een idee wat ik heb, maar geen idee of het gaat werken...
Gebruik de WARMTE van een Peltier element om het filament te verwarmen, en de KOUDE om de lucht te ontvochtigen.
I'm trying to mod my Sunlu S1 with a design of my own, which also offers me a challenge to better understand Fusion 360, the Bambu X1C, and printing in ABS. And if it all works out I should end up with an enhanced filament dryer, so win-win.
If it works...
Time to go to bed, but first share an image of the bottom section, this time printed in ABS. The first attempt warped a bit, but the second try was a lot better.
This is a work in progress. This is going to be a modification of the Sunlu S1, based on the 'Turbo Mod MK2'.
I'm currently printing a prototype using PLA, just to make sure I got all dimensions etc. right, and I still have to design some air valves.
I created a small model to better understand wall thickness and slicer behavior versus strength and accuracy, but I never shared the files. So, here they are.
- Click this to download the test files
- A quick reminder (image) of the sizes
In the past I used a Dremel 3D20, and when printing PLA the whole room started to smell... which can't be good. These days I am the proud owner of a Bambu Lab X1C, and I plan to print ABS and PETG, and the one little test print I made smells, even though the X1C has a filter inside the enclosure.
Is that dangerous?
Not directly related, but when I was looking into drying temperatures and build plate temperatures I also noticed building chamber temperatures. It's one of the aspects of the X1C where could have been just a tiny little bit better.
It has caused many people to mod their machines, with varying degrees of success...
https://neal.fun/space-elevator/
