Monday, August 12, 2024

Plate Lab - Cleaning Building Plates

3D Printing

How to clean a 3D Printer building plate? It ain't much more than simply cleaning the dishes...

Read more...


Step by step

Warning. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions!

The plates themselves, as well as the coatings applied, differ from plate to plate and brand to brand. You can easily damage a plate by taking the wrong steps or using the wrong kind of chemicals.

Below you'll find instructions for:

  1. Textured PEI
  2. Smooth PEI
  3. PEO  / PEY (effect plates)
  4. Polyurea
  5. FR4 / G10 / G11

Scroll down for the correct section.

First try step 1, if that doesn't help steps 1 and 2, if that doesn't help steps 1 to 3, and so forth. Some steps may be optional and depend on the user's preference. Use the approach that works best for you.


Aruco code

If you used a sticker to add an Aruco code, then make sure you don't damage it. Or have enough spare stickers 😎


1. Textured PEI

1. Try not to touch the build area with your fingers.

2. Wait for objects to cool down before removing them from the plate.

3. Quick clean with IPA / rubbing alcohol, when needed, mostly to get rid of oily fingerprints -- when needed.

Some consider this step optional. Don't use any other chemicals but IPA (rubbing alcohol) on textured PEI. Remember that non-PEI materials (polyurea, for example) may not be IPA resistant.

Do not use aceton!

The BIQU black SSS plate has a coating that is somewhat rubbery, and I'm not to sure what it is actually made of. I would suggest NOT to use IPA on those plates. 

4. Clean with a drop of dish washing liquid, some warm water, and a sponge -- when needed.

Honestly, I typically immediately go for step 5, the nailbrush. I shouldn't, but I do 😎


 

5. Use warm water, soap, and some force, using a dish washing brush, or a nail brush -- when needed. (A nailbrush like the one below seems to work best.)

 


 

6. At this stage no regular cleaning will restore your plate, so you may need to deliberately 'scratch' the surface using (the hard side of) a cleaning pad. This may damage your plate, so use your own discretion and risk!

These sponges come in different types. Start with the softer variants. You do not want to remove the structure from the surface of your Textured PEI plate!

Do not use sandpaper or steel wool cleaning pads! (But...)

Note that Bumbu actually suggests the use of sandpaper (Bamby Wiki), but I'm a little reluctant to suggest this on Textured PEI plates. The texture is essential for gripping and releasing the component, so wearing it down feels counter productive...


2. Smooth PEI

Pretty much the same as Textured PEI.

1. Try not to touch the build area with your fingers.

2. Wait for objects to cool down before removing them from the plate.

3. Quick clean with IPA / rubbing alcohol, when needed, mostly to get rid of oily fingerprints -- when needed.

Some consider this step optional. Don't use any other chemicals but IPA (rubbing alcohol) on smooth PEI. Remember that non-PEI materials (polyurea, for example) may not be IPA resistant.

Do not use aceton!

PEI and PEX / PEA are different materials, even though they look similar.

4. Clean with a drop of dish washing liquid, some warm water, and a sponge -- when needed.

Honestly, I typically immediately go for step 5, the nailbrush. I shouldn't, but I do 😎 

5. Use warm water, soap, and some force, using a dish washing brush, or a nail brush -- when needed.

6. At this stage no regular cleaning will restore your plate, so you may need to deliberately 'scratch' the surface using (the hard side of) a cleaning pad. This may damage your plate, so use your own discretion and risk!

These sponges come in different types. Start with the softer variants.

7. It's time to 'scour' the surface of your plate. Sandpaper of 600 (if you want a slightly matte effect) or 1200 and up (for a more shiny surface) or an equivalent steel whool pad. Clean with warm water and alcohol after sanding your plate.


3. PEO / PEY (effect plates)

These plates only work as long as their surfaces are intact. They fully rely on imprinting they micro / nano structures onto the printed models, so you have to make sure not to damage the surfaces.

1. Try not to touch the build area with your fingers.

2. Wait for objects to cool down before removing them from the plate.

3. Clean with a drop of dish washing liquid, some warm water, and a sponge -- when needed.

Chemicals like IPA (alcohol) may damage the surface. They should not, but it may...

Sandpaper and scouring pads will definitely destroy these plates.


4. Polyurea (Cryogrip, Cryogrip Pro Frostbite, PEZ, etc.)

Though these look very similar to PEI they are made using a very different material. Cleaning is pretty much the same as Textured PEI, though you're not allowed to use IPA (alcohol).

1. Try not to touch the build area with your fingers.

2. Wait for objects to cool down before removing them from the plate.

4. Clean with a drop of dish washing liquid, some warm water, and a sponge -- when needed.

5. Use warm water, soap, and some force, using a dish washing brush, or a nail brush -- when needed. 

I don't have a Polyurea plate that has seen enough usage to need scouring. Thus far, cleaning it with warm water and soap has always been enough.


5. FR4 / G10 / G11

1. Try not to touch the build area with your fingers.

2. Wait for objects to cool down before removing them from the plate.

3. Quick clean with IPA / rubbing alcohol, when needed, mostly to get rid of oily fingerprints -- when needed. Some consider this step optional.

4. Clean with a drop of dish washing liquid, some warm water, and a sponge -- when needed.

Honestly, I typically immediately go for step 5, the nailbrush. I shouldn't, but I do 😎 

5. Use warm water, soap, and some force, using a dish washing brush, or a nail brush -- when needed.

6. At this stage no regular cleaning will restore your plate, so you may need to deliberately 'scratch' the surface using (the hard side of) a cleaning pad. This may damage your plate, so use your own discretion and risk!

These sponges come in different types. Start with the softer variants. Never scour dry.

7. It's time to 'scour' the surface of your plate. Use sandpaper of 400 and up. The higher the number, the smoother the resulting surface.

Due to the way these plates are made (compressed fiber and epoxy) there may be glass fiber touching the surface. Sanding such a surface may release glass fiber particles, so you should take the necessary precautions (sand wet, use a suitable mask, sand outside, etc.).

No comments:

Post a Comment