3D Printing + X1C + Chamber Temperature
All Bambu's are created equal.
Yes. And that's a problem. Not a real problem, but it poses some interesting questions, especially when it comes to heat-soaking the build chamber. (More about that here.)
230V vs 110V
The X1C has the same heated bed in the EU as it has in the US. That bed is current limited. This means that the heated bed in the EU can pull up to 800 W peak, whilst the US bed can pull up to 400 W (actually a little less).
For printing this doesn't matter that much, BUT for heating up the printing chamber it does!
I was a bit surprised by people using a chamber heater in an X1C, and claiming that without a chamber heater they had to wait half an hour or more for a proper heat soak. My printer is fairly saturated after around 15 minutes.
The only thing that might cause this is the different operating voltages, and I've understood from another US user (who has run his X1C with and without a step-up transformer) that on 230V the chamber heats up way better. I still don't understand entirely why (as once the heatbed has reached the target temperature the X1C will throttle the power) but apparently the control logic allows more heat to be released into the chamber when running the X1C on 230V.
Obviously, this also means X1Cs in the EU reach their target bed temperature earlier than their US counterparts. The US machines, on the other hand, can go up to 120 degrees where the EU machines are limited to bed temperatures of 110. Note that the P1P and P1S are always limited to 100 C.
Insulation
So, for EU users: to get a little higher and more consistent temperature in the build chamber insulation might be enough.
For US users: you might need a chamber heater on top of added insulation. Just make sure not to melt the plastic of your printer!
For all users: stay below 70 degrees! I suggest to stick to 60, and make sure your electronics won't get too hot.
More
No comments:
Post a Comment