Not directly related, but when I was looking into drying temperatures and build plate temperatures I also noticed building chamber temperatures. It's one of the aspects of the X1C where could have been just a tiny little bit better.
It has caused many people to mod their machines, with varying degrees of success...
3D Printing + X1C + Chamber Temperature
All Bambu's are created equal.
Yes. And that's a problem. Not a real problem, but it poses some interesting questions, especially when it comes to heat-soaking the build chamber. (More about that here.)
My Sunlu S1 mods have been partially successful, and I guess I'll have to consider a DIY solution using Peltiers to move to the next level... Though that one is still in the 'idea phase' 😇
Next challenge / experiment: what to do with old filament, and how to make sure it will last longer?
The Bambu Lab X1C has an interesting option. It looks for a marker on the building plate, and warns you if the plate inserted does not match the one you've used during slicing. Pretty convenient, isn't it?
The P1S and P1P don't use this code, and many cheaper build plates don't have a code. So what to do?
Engineering High Temperature Smooth Textured PEI PEX PEZ PEY Cryogrip SSS Polyurea FR4 GS10 TK99 Honeycomb Cube Wham Bam Lightyear...
My god! It's enough to drive one crazy! So, I've ordered a few different ones, and have been scouring the Internet for more information. And to be perfectly honest: it's a confusing mess.
I'm trying to mod my Sunlu S1 with a design of my own, which also offers me a challenge to better understand Fusion 360, the Bambu X1C, and printing in ABS. And if it all works out I should end up with an enhanced filament dryer, so win-win.
If it works...
In the past I used a Dremel 3D20, and when printing PLA the whole room started to smell... which can't be good. These days I am the proud owner of a Bambu Lab X1C, and I plan to print ABS and PETG, and the one little test print I made smells, even though the X1C has a filter inside the enclosure.
Is that dangerous?
There's surprisingly little understandable explanation of the impact of texture on adhesion and release on print beds... But we can reason it through. (And steal from the real scientists 😇)
Obviously, texture also applies to PEI, Polyurea, and in fact, every other plate!
Let's see if I got ABS down now. Three large blocks, 60% speed, in ABS. Print time: 14 hours. And it's on...
I mean, what could go wrong?
I've compiled some numbers. Make sure to check your filament specifications - do not rely on my data!
After my aborted first attempt I settled for a single block with slightly different settings... These are the results. Remember: my settings came from trying to print the toughest object in ABS (for my Sunlu mod), not trying to make the prettiest print...
"I love it when a plan comes together."
Yeah, so do I. But sometimes... It doesn't.
So, here's the challenge I set myself: design and build my own filament dryer.
Now what does that have to do with a 123-3D Spool Holder?!?
I'm writing this new OBS install post, as newer releases use different options, and things were getting a little confusing. Unfortunately, not everything works as it did in the past. That might be me, or other stuff may have changed...
It's time to settle on a specific module size, and decide how a default 'baseplate' should look like.
Just some ideas to ponder over...
What if I would replace the right panel of my X1C with a custom build, so I could add carbon and Hepa filters to the box? In other words, enlarge the chamber a little, so I won't have a Carbonmax inside the building space?
To be honest, I don't own a single one of those PEO / PEY 'holographic' plates, except the 'PET Carbon' one. Which a. isn't made of carbon, and b. has some very minor texture to it (though I can't feel it). And c. This page is pretty useless 🤣
So, I decided to create my own STEM system. Step number one was the decision to adapt and adopt Lego bricks. Step number two was figuring out the concept and sizing.
I got some input from an Internet contact who is a teacher, and I used quite a bit of his experience and insight. (He didn't want to be mentioned, but you still deserve the credit, mister X! We'll call you 'Fred' from now on.)
Not all cold plates are created equal. And many are simply not cold plates at all.
Here's a comparison between several (cheap) cold plates. Note: if you want me to test another plate, drop me a line, and send me that plate 😊
In the beginning 😇 Bambu Lab was shipping the X1C with random plates. These days they all seem to come with the gold colored textured PEI plate (at least here in NL). A sensible thing, as it's one of the easiest to use 😏
Textured PEI doesn't just make sense for Bambu Lab owners... they make sense for every 3D printer with a heated bed.
