Not directly related, but when I was looking into drying temperatures and build plate temperatures I also noticed building chamber temperatures. It's one of the aspects of the X1C where could have been just a tiny little bit better.
It has caused many people to mod their machines, with varying degrees of success...
The Bambu Lab X1C has an interesting option. It looks for a marker on the building plate, and warns you if the plate inserted does not match the one you've used during slicing. Pretty convenient, isn't it?
The P1S and P1P don't use this code, and many cheaper build plates don't have a code. So what to do?
Engineering High Temperature Smooth Textured PEI PEX PEZ PEY Cryogrip SSS Polyurea FR4 GS10 TK99 Honeycomb Cube Wham Bam Lightyear...
My god! It's enough to drive one crazy! So, I've ordered a few different ones, and have been scouring the Internet for more information. And to be perfectly honest: it's a confusing mess.
In the beginning 😇 Bambu Lab was shipping the X1C with random plates. These days they all seem to come with the gold colored textured PEI plate (at least here in NL). A sensible thing, as it's one of the easiest to use 😏
Textured PEI doesn't just make sense for Bambu Lab owners... they make sense for every 3D printer with a heated bed.
Let's see if I got ABS down now. Three large blocks, 60% speed, in ABS. Print time: 14 hours. And it's on...
I mean, what could go wrong?
After my aborted first attempt I settled for a single block with slightly different settings... These are the results. Remember: my settings came from trying to print the toughest object in ABS (for my Sunlu mod), not trying to make the prettiest print...
To be honest, I don't own a single one of those PEO / PEY 'holographic' plates, except the 'PET Carbon' one. Which a. isn't made of carbon, and b. has some very minor texture to it (though I can't feel it). And c. This page is pretty useless 🤣
In the past I used a Dremel 3D20, and when printing PLA the whole room started to smell... which can't be good. These days I am the proud owner of a Bambu Lab X1C, and I plan to print ABS and PETG, and the one little test print I made smells, even though the X1C has a filter inside the enclosure.
Is that dangerous?
Just some ideas to ponder over...
What if I would replace the right panel of my X1C with a custom build, so I could add carbon and Hepa filters to the box? In other words, enlarge the chamber a little, so I won't have a Carbonmax inside the building space?
Bigtreetech sells a number of products aimed at the Bambu Lab printers, all using the Panda moniker. Marketing-wise it's a great idea. Product-wise the SSS plate is a bit of a disaster.
It looks like PEI (but only at first glance). It isn't though. It might be epoxy, some other unholy coating, or it might be a kind of truck bedliner / oily paint.
Nobody knows, including Bigtreetech.
Not all cold plates are created equal. And many are simply not cold plates at all.
Here's a comparison between several (cheap) cold plates. Note: if you want me to test another plate, drop me a line, and send me that plate 😊
These objects can help you calibrate your printer. This should make it easier to print Lego compatible blocks, such as the Frankenblocks. You can find the files on Makerworld.
For most people it will be enough to print plate 1, play a little with X- and Y-compensation for 'snappiness', and be done with it.
Still want to know more? Read on...
This is a boring page. Skip it if you don't care about the materials used in your glass fiber / carbon based Building Plate.
Still with me? Okay. Here we go... Remember: everything in this post is about using glass (carbon) fiber based materials as build plates.
