Tuesday, April 30, 2024

Replace Head Unit in an MX-5 NC2 (2011) - 1. Parts Required

Car / MX-5 / Radio.

The MX-5 is a great car, but the radio Mazda put in isn't very impressive. So I decided to replace mine.

Here are some notes for those trying to do the same thing... I will add some images that identify some of the things that weren't entirely clear in the videos. Let's start with getting the right parts.


Warning

It isn't extremely hard (hey, I could do it) but if you run into the safety bolt issue, then you're looking at a lot of sweat and pain and kid-unfriendly words...

Also, if you're not careful you could damage your car, so proceed at your own risk!

Any links to suppliers / products are just as reference. It doesn't mean those products are what I used, or that they are even any good...


Things you'll need

Things you'll (probably always) need

  • the new head unit (duh)

Just buy the unit you like.

You could try one of the cheap Chinese Android ones... perhaps a little risky but cheap cheap cheap. Note that the (cheapest) sellers sometimes lie about memory capacity, and that Android on these units is still at Android Q aka Android 10. If they claim a later version that is -- frankly -- a lie.

Some of those cheap units come with an 'integrated' fascia, making the new screen large (9") and still looking like they are a part of your car. I like the looks, but not the specs of those units. Still, one might give it a try. 

You might consider a Chinese unit of a slightly better reputation (Joying or Atoto).

(Keep in mind that Android Auto and full Android are two completely different things, although the latter typically does support the former well.) 

Or you could settle for your regular well known brand names, like Pioneer, Sony, or Alpine. The -- cough -- affordable models (lessay everything below $600) -- cough -- are typically only Android Auto, not full Android. One advantage of brand name units is that they will probably last longer, and that the sound quality is likely better. One would hope...

Then there's the size. 'Classic' 2 DIN units are build into your dash and require a new fascia. The screens are limited to 7". The 'floating' models can be 9" or even 10" in size, but you must like the style, and make sure they don't block the air vents.

  • a dashboard fascia (radio frame)

Obviously, if you bought a (cheap) Chinese 9" unit with an integrated fascia you don't need to buy a separate one.

I used a Metra.

I have no experience with the OEM frames, but I've heard they might be a better solution for Atoto and other Chinese units. I had to modify the Metra unit I bought a bit more than I liked... 



(Click on any image to enlarge.)

  • a Mazda radio connector

Make sure that is has enough pins, separate, or as part of a cable kit. The number depends on the type of radio, Bose / non-Bose, and the functions you need to support. 

You may also need one or more ISO connectors if you have a Bose unit and use a CTAMPPASSTHROUGH adapter, or want to DIY such an adapter.




(Click on any image to enlarge.)
 

  • a (short) antenna extension cable

Most of the setups I've seen have an antenna lead that's too short, so you might wanna' buy a short antenna extension cable upfront.

  • small materials - shrink wrap, electrical tape, tie wraps
  • tools (duh) - a 10 mm hex, heat gun, screw drivers, etc.


A. Bose + Chinese head unit

Your new head unit is a Chinese Android box, and your old unit is a Bose.

  • if you have steering wheel controls then you may or may not need a Steering Wheel Controller

For example an AVC or Connects2 unit.

My Atoto head unit didn't need one, and I suspect most Chinese units don't, but I've seen some reviews / installations where they were necessary. However, I expect that the majority of the Chinese units don't need an SWC adapter.

  • you may or may not need an LOC

The Bose amp expects a certain level of signals, more than the RCA line outs, but less than the speaker outs. Sometimes you can connect the RCA line outs directly to the amp and it works. In other cases you need an LOC.

I expect that you will need one in most cases, though there are radios that allow some kind of attenuation on the outputs.

If you buy a complete kit (try Cabriohoeve and talk to them to make sure you order the correct type!) it will probably include the CTAMPPASSTHROUGH board of Connects2. It's an alternative to the typical LOC, and it sounded quite a bit better than the low cost LOCs I tried. Again, YMMV.

  • an OEM fascia may be easier to use than the Metra ones (Metra plus Atoto was a pain)
 

B. no Bose + Chinese head unit

You're lucky and don't have a Bose head unit nor amplifier. (Note that there are a few rare occasions where the head unit isn't marked as a Bose.) Your new head unit is a Chinese Android box.

  • you probably don't need an SWC controller if you have steering wheel controls (see under Bose above)
  • you don't need an LOC
  • an OEM fascia may be easier to use than the Metra ones

C. Bose + Pioneer / Alpine / Sony / any other 'brand' unit

You have a Bose head unit and amplifier.

  • you need an SWC controller if you have steering wheel controls
  • you need an LOC

  • you can use either an OEM or Metra fascia

D. no Bose + Pioneer / Alpine / Sony / any other 'brand' unit

You're lucky and don't have a Bose head unit nor amplifier. (Note that there are a few rare occasions where the head unit isn't marked as a Bose.)

  • you need an SWC controller if you have steering wheel controls
  • you don't need an LOC
  • you can use either an OEM or Metra fascia


CTAMPPASSTHROUGH

That's a long word, and should be the title of a song 😏

I'll add some DIY information later for those that want to try a CTAMPPASSTHROUGH module but can't find one in their nick of the woods, or those that need to adjust the volume a bit up- or downwards.


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