For a change this is all about the surface (of building plates, yes, but ain't it great to be superficial for once?)
I've split the previous page in two, as it was starting to confuse myself, and moved all the material stuff in here.
2. Surface Materials
2.1 Overview
In general I'm not a big fan of many Chinese supplier websites, as their accuracy often leaves something to be wished for, but this page by Jiujiang gives a decent overview (including some of the usual mistakes):
2.2 3240
3240 <> Garolite <> G10 <> G11 <> FR4
Again, this is a typical mix-up on platforms like AliExpress.
According to IEC893-3-2 and GB/T1303.1-1998, 3240 stands for:
3 - laminate
2 - inorganic substrate plate
4 - use temperature is up to 155 degrees
0 - product type
Typically, it's cured epoxy, which might comply with G10 or FR4 requirements, but there's no guarantee that this is actually the case. In other words: 3240 is the stuff you don't want, though it might work perfectly fine for a building plate.
On platforms like AliExpress they keep mixing up the names, unfortunately.
Here's an example spec of 3240 from Yisuola. Note that this 3240 can only handle a 110 degrees C. On another page from ZTelec they specify 130 degrees for a similar product.
Are these reliable numbers? I don't know, as the English is a bit of a mess, and they do mix up epoxy and phenolic, so... YMMV. Use your own discretion.
Here's the very first hit from AliExpress:
Sooo... 3240 = G10 = FR4 = Bakelite?!? That's awfully inspiring and trustworthy, right? But don't you worry! Nearly all of the AliExpress sellers mess this up. And though I might accept FR4 = G10, I can't do the same thing for 3240.
2.3 Garolite
Garolite is a brand. It includes multiple products, including G10 and G11 according to the NEMA standards.
Typically, a Garolite plate in 3D printing context is an epoxy + fiber glass plate, pretty durable, but without a guarantee it meets G10 or G11 requirements. It could still be a pretty damned good building plate, who knows? These plates are probably better than 3240s, but who can tell?
You'll have your supplier to ask what kind of Garolite it is, and what the plate is good for. And you'll have to trust his answers. (Then again, other suppliers may claim their stuff is G11, when it's something totally different, so there's always an element of trust involved.)
2.4 FR4 and G10
FR4 has been standardized, and is most often used as the 'sea water green' material in printed circuit boards for electronics. It's very similar to G10, though G10 is often a little tougher. Where FR4 focusses on it's Fire Retardant qualities, G10 is more of a construction material.
G10 mostly comes in a dirty yellowish vanillaish white, but there are tons of colors available.
So, you might be able to replace G10 with FR4, but not always. This is something suppliers often get wrong. For example here's a page of BIRS that says you could do so. Duh uh. Nope. It may be the case in all practical applications, but strict to the letter it's not.
For 3D printing purposes though, G10 and FR4 are often very close - even interchangeable - though G10 may have a bit tougher surface.
For example, here's Atlas Fiber, listing the same maximal operating temperature (140 C) for both their FR4 and G10, but with different mechanical specs for each material.
Here's another datasheet, this time from AMS:
At least the 140 degrees appears to be a common theme 😎
2.5 G11 and FR5
Atlas Fiber doesn't show an FR5 datasheet on their website, but it is my understanding that G11 and FR5 are very close in most aspects. Their G11 functions up to 180 degrees.
The datasheet from AMS:
2.6 Aruco (only for X1C users)
Here's another missed opportunity to use the Aruco codes on the building plates to inform the printer about the temperature limits or the thickness of the plate, how and where to wipe the nozzle, etcetera...
2.7 The Big Take Away...
It's all about the epoxy, regardless of standard, brand, manufacturer. Even the crappiest fiber glass board could be great if it's flat enough and uses the right epoxy.
Now it's quite likely that the better brands will provide the better plates with the better epoxy, and thus you'll have to decide where you'll buy your plates and parts, and what are the better brands. I leave that all up to your discretion.
More
No comments:
Post a Comment