Time to go to bed, but first share an image of the bottom section, this time printed in ABS. The first attempt warped a bit, but the second try was a lot better.
Settings
I used the following settings:
1. Default preset, 0.20 mm standard
You'll find there in Bambu Studio:
Prepare tab
Process Global
Drop down menu below that
Pick the preset you want, I used the 0.20 standard
2. With the following modifications:
Quality
Ironing
Ironing type - none
Consider switching this on to smoothen the top layer. See the images further down.
Advanced
Void crossing wall - Yes
Max detour length - 10%
Strength
Top / bottom shells
Top surface - Rectilinear
Bottom surface - Rectilinear
Internal solid pattern - Rectilinear
As I placed the model close to 45 degrees on the bed, you might consider another (top) surface pattern.
Sparse infill
Sparse infill density - 15%
Sparse infill pattern - 3D Honeycomb
Speed
All - 40% of original value
All movement and acceleration speeds lowered to 40% of the original values, except for sparse infill.
Acceleration
Sparse infill - 100%
Support
Support
Enable support - On / Off
The bottom part I printed with support off. The top part is currently printing with support on.
Type - Normal (auto)
Style - Snug
I don't want support towers build on top of the brim, or eating up build plate space. I mostly use supports for the one round front hole, ohterwise it wouldn't even be necessary.
Treshold angle - 30 degrees
This *may* help with the rounded corners, but probably won't matter much. The default is 45 and should work just as well.
Others
Bed adhesion
Brim type - Outer and inner brims
The print has several large holes. Why not use that space to improve adhesion?
Brim width - 5 mm
You could probably go up to 10 mm, make sure the brim won't overlap the 'test lines' or it might still come lose. I upped it to 8 mm without overlapping the calibration and pre-print lines.
G-code output
Reduce infill retraction - Yes
3. Filament settings: Generic ABS
You'll find these in Bambu studio:
Prepare tab
Drop down menu below Filament
Pick the preset you want, I used Generic ABS
I used 123-3D Print Jupiter black ABS, roll 1 kg, two days out of its package, undried, direct fed outside the AMS (the roll is a little too wide for the AMS). Link: https://www.123-3d.nl/ABS/1-75-mm-ABS/Zwart-p7369.html
4. With the following modifications:
Filament
Basic information
Recommended nozzle temperature
Min - 240
Max - 265
Print temperature
Nozzle
Initial layer - 260 C
Other layers - 265 C
All bed temperatures (except Cool plate) - 100 C
Cooling
I'm not sure about these settings. Some people suggest to completely turn off the fans.
Part cooling fan
Min fan speed treshold
Fan speed - 5%
Layer time - 50 s
Max fan speed treshold
Fan speed - 50%
I'm lowering this to 40% for the top section.
Layer time - 5 s
Keep fan always on - yes
After some online discussions I'm switching this to no.
Slow printing down for better layer cooling - yes
Fan speed for overhangs - 80%
I'm lowering this to 50% for the top section.
Auxiliary part cooling fan
Fan speed - 0%
5. Layer inspection
I think it's automatically off when using generic ABS settings, but just to be sure check the setting.
This is where you'll find this in Bambu Studio:
Device tab
Print Options
First layer Inspection - off
Pre-heating
The X1C takes about more than 15 minutes to fully heat up, so I set the bed to 95 degrees and waited 20 minutes before starting the print. Watch this video for a real life recording of heating up the chamber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg4dkL3gzPU
I might lower the bed temperature a little once I have a Carbonmax / Bentobox installed, dunno yet.
Note that the chamber fan extracts air and sends it to the back of the unit. It doesn't help to circulate the air. That's another reason to add a Bentobox or Carbonmax when printing materials that need higher chamber temperatures. It might also improve the readings of the chamber temperature sensor. (As an alternative, one could consider adding a temp sensor to the Bentobox / Carbonmax. Ah, future plans, future plans...)
Result (bottom section)
After 2 to 3 hours printing (it seems some of my settings threw the time calculation off, it was closer to 3 hours, but who cares).
You can see that it didn't completely stick to the plate near the edge. I suspect the 'circle' patterns I tried to create on the bottom caused this, so I'm going to remove those from the model. Didn't really need them anyway.
I will also try a larger brim next time.
I had to rotate the model 140 degrees to fit it on the print bed. In another print I might try different infill patterns, as it doesn't seem to be possible to change the angle used for a rectilinear top infill.
There seems to be a little under extrusion when doing long straights on the top layer, and over extrusion on the top layer near the rounded corners. Ironing will probably fix most of that, so I'll turn that on next time.
I printed the PLA version at 45 degrees, but had to print the ABS version at a slightly different angle to accommodate for the brim.
Two piece
In hindsight, I should have gone for a four parts model from the start (effectively slicing the above in two halves). Mounting isn't a problem, and it would be strong enough as well. Once I got this thing working I'll simplify the design and share that one as well. But first get this one to work.
There's always another day...
Tomorrow I give the other half a shot. I'm more worried about that one, as it is a lot higher (35 versus 6 mm). Let's see if a bit of extra brim can make it work...
To be continued...
More
No comments:
Post a Comment